Gas, electric and induction cooktop repair
Cooktops fail in brand-specific ways, and the three technologies could not be more different under the glass. A gas burner that clicks but will not light is usually a dirty or cracked igniter, a misaligned cap or a failed spark module. An electric radiant element that stays cold is typically an open element or a burned infinite switch. Induction is its own world — when a zone will not recognize cookware, it is often a coil sensor or control fault, not your pans. Our manufacturer-trained technicians know which is which and repair each correctly.
What we fix
On gas cooktops we replace igniters and spark modules, reseat and clean burner assemblies, and service safety valves so flames light cleanly and evenly. On electric and glass-top ranges we replace radiant elements, infinite switches and burned receptacle blocks. On induction units we diagnose coil sensors, IGBT control boards and the touch interface. Continuous clicking — one of the most common and maddening complaints — is almost always moisture or food under a burner cap or a failing igniter switch, which we resolve quickly. We use genuine OEM parts throughout.
- Gas, electric coil, radiant glass-top and induction cooktops
- Igniters, spark modules, safety valves and burner assemblies
- Radiant elements, infinite switches and induction control boards
- 6-month parts-and-labor warranty on every cooktop repair
Safety first on gas
Gas cooktop repair is not a job for guesswork. A burner that lights late or smells of gas can indicate a valve or regulator issue that needs a trained technician. We test for clean ignition and proper flame, so your cooktop is safe as well as working.
Common problems we fix
- Gas burner will not ignite
- Clicking that will not stop
- Electric coil / element not heating
- Induction zone not detecting pan
- Uneven or weak flame
- Surface controls unresponsive
Frequently asked questions
My gas burner keeps clicking even after it lights. How do I stop it?
Continuous clicking is usually moisture or food debris under the burner cap, a misaligned cap, or a failing igniter switch. We clean, realign and test the ignition, replacing the switch or module only if needed.
My induction cooktop says no pan is detected. Is it broken?
Not necessarily — but if you are using induction-compatible cookware and it still will not detect, it points to a coil sensor or control-board fault. We diagnose the zone electronics directly.
One electric burner will not heat but the others work. Why?
That is typically an open element or a failed infinite switch for that specific burner, or a burned receptacle block on plug-in coil ranges. It is usually an inexpensive, single-visit repair.