Dishwasher repair for dishes that actually come out clean
A dishwasher has to fill, heat, circulate, drain and dry — and a fault anywhere in that chain shows up as the same complaint: dirty dishes or standing water. Our factory-trained technicians diagnose the specific stage that's failing, whether it's a weak wash pump, a scaled spray arm, a clogged sump, a failed heating element or a leak-detection lockout, and repair it to manufacturer spec with genuine parts.
The dishwasher problems we fix most in Northern Virginia
Poor cleaning and gritty, filmy dishes are frequently a hard-water problem here — mineral scale collects in the spray arms and on the heating element, throttling the wash long before a part actually fails. Drain faults and standing water usually trace to a clogged sump, a tired drain pump or a stuck check valve. Leaks trip the anti-flood float and lock the machine out entirely. Door-latch and detergent-door faults are common wear items that stop a cycle before it starts.
- Dishes coming out gritty, filmy or still dirty
- Won't drain, or standing water left in the tub
- Leaking onto the floor, or a leak-lockout error
- Won't fill, won't heat, or dishes stay wet
- Door latch or detergent-door faults, or mid-cycle stops
Every brand, including Bosch and Samsung quirks
We repair Bosch, Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, GE, Maytag, Frigidaire and Kenmore dishwashers. Bosch's signature E15 error is the anti-flood float tripping over a small leak, not a dead pump; Samsung dishwashers throw 5C and OE drain codes that usually mean a clogged sump rather than a control board; hard-water scale affects them all. We fit genuine parts so the wash arms, pumps and sensors match the platform.
Repair or replace? Our honest guidance
Mid-range dishwashers are usually worth repairing for common faults like pumps, valves, latches and heating elements. For an older builder-grade unit with a failed circulation pump plus a leaking tub, replacement can be the better value — and we will tell you when that's the case rather than selling you a repair that doesn't pay off.
What to expect when we come out
We diagnose the failing stage, provide a written quote first, clear any hard-water scale at the source, and repair with genuine OEM parts. Every dishwasher repair is backed by our 6-month parts-and-labor warranty, and we're happy to advise on keeping mineral scale from returning.
Common problems we fix
- Standing water in the bottom
- Dishes still dirty or gritty
- Leaking from the door
- Door will not latch
- Not draining
- Control panel unresponsive
Frequently asked questions
Why is there always water at the bottom of my dishwasher?
A small amount is normal; a full pool is not. Standing water means a drain restriction, a failed drain pump or a check valve stuck open. We clear and test the full drain path so it empties completely.
My dishwasher runs but dishes come out gritty. Why?
Usually clogged spray-arm jets, a worn wash pump, or a chopper/filter that is no longer breaking down food — often made worse by hard-water scale. We clean, descale and replace the worn component as needed.
The control panel is unresponsive. Is it the board?
Sometimes, but not always — it can be the door latch interlock, a ribbon connector or the touch panel itself. We isolate the failure before quoting a board, which is the most expensive part.
Why is my dishwasher leaving dishes gritty?
In our area it's very often hard-water scale in the spray arms and on the heating element, not a broken machine. We clear the scale, check the wash pump and spray pressure, and get it cleaning properly again.
My Bosch shows E15 and won't start — is it broken?
E15 means water reached the base pan and tripped the safety float, almost always from a small leak at a seal or hose. We find and fix the leak, clear the water and reset the float so it runs again.