Dryer repair that fixes the real cause — not just the symptom
A dryer that won't heat or takes three cycles to dry is almost always one of two things: a failed heating component, or restricted airflow. The trap is that they look identical from the laundry room, and swapping a heating element on a vent problem just burns out the new part. Our factory-trained technicians test the full heating circuit and the airflow path, so the fix actually solves the problem the first time — and, just as important, removes a genuine fire risk.
The dryer problems we see most
No heat on an electric dryer is typically a failed heating element, a blown thermal fuse, or an open thermostat; on a gas dryer it is usually the igniter or a flame sensor. Long dry times are overwhelmingly a lint-clogged or crushed vent line — common in Northern Virginia townhomes and older colonials with long, twisting runs to the exterior. A loud thumping or a drum that won't turn while the motor hums points to a snapped drum belt, worn rollers or a failing idler pulley.
- No heat, or clothes still damp after a full cycle
- Takes two or three cycles to dry a load
- Drum won't turn, or loud thumping and squealing
- Shuts off early or overheats
- Burning smell (stop using it and call us — this is a safety issue)
Gas and electric, every brand
We repair Samsung, LG, Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, Electrolux, Bosch and Kenmore dryers, gas and electric. Samsung and LG both use fault codes (HE, d80/d90/d95) that specifically flag heating and vent problems; Whirlpool-built dryers are the classic snapped-belt-and-worn-rollers repair. We replace belts, rollers, glides and the tensioner as a set so the drum runs true and quiet.
Repair or replace? Usually repair
Dryers are among the most repair-worthy appliances in the home — the mechanical and heating parts are inexpensive relative to a new unit, and a well-maintained dryer lasts well over a decade. Replacement only makes sense on very old units with multiple simultaneous failures, and we will tell you plainly if that's where yours is.
What to expect when we come out
We test the heating circuit and the vent, give you a written quote, and repair with genuine OEM parts. We also confirm the vent path is clear before we leave, because a restricted vent is both the number-one cause of slow drying and a leading cause of dryer fires. Every dryer repair is covered by our 6-month parts-and-labor warranty.
Common problems we fix
- No heat / clothes still damp
- Takes multiple cycles to dry
- Squealing or grinding noise
- Will not start or shuts off
- Drum not tumbling
- Burning smell during operation
Frequently asked questions
My dryer runs but does not heat. What is wrong?
No-heat is typically a failed heating element (electric), a bad igniter or flame sensor (gas), or a blown thermal fuse caused by restricted airflow. We test the full heat circuit so we replace the part that actually failed — and clear what caused it.
Why does my dryer take so long to dry?
Long dry times are usually airflow, not the dryer itself: a clogged vent, lint-packed duct or partially failed heating circuit. We measure airflow and heat output rather than guessing.
Is it safe to keep using a dryer that smells like burning?
No — stop using it and call us. A burning smell can mean lint near the heating element or a failing motor, both of which are fire risks. We will inspect it promptly.
My dryer runs but won't get hot — what is it?
On an electric dryer that's usually a failed heating element, thermal fuse or thermostat; on gas it's typically the igniter. We test the whole heating circuit, replace the faulty part with a genuine component, and confirm the vent isn't the real culprit.
Why is my dryer taking so long to dry?
Nine times out of ten it's a restricted vent, not the dryer. Lint builds up in long vent runs and chokes the airflow. We clear and check the vent path along with testing the heating parts — and it removes a fire hazard at the same time.